Saturday, July 19, 2008

Burger Contender #1: Shake Shack, NYC



So remember that post about the great burger debate? Here's a place to fuel the fire.

So we've talked about how the burger comes in all shapes and sizes. Also how a place like California has a long and distinguished burger tradition thanks to the fascination with the drive-thru. Consequently, New York City doesn't have a great burger tradition, with things like deli sandwiches and street hot dogs occupying the ranks of city institutions.

Enter Shake Shack, a stand in Madison Square Park run by the Union Square Hospitality group, which is home to the legendary Gramercy Tavern, one of New York's top restaurants. With Shake Shack, Danny Meyer has come upon a great concept of a simple burger stand in a refreshing park setting in lower Manhattan. On temperate summer days, like the day I went, it's quite an ideal spot to be.

The burgers, however, are superior. Flavorful patties that are juicy and succulent. Creamy and tangy shack sauce. Fresh toppings. Certainly, this burger excels at the required elements. I ordered the Shack Stack, which is a double cheeseburger with a 'shroom burger in the middle. The 'Shroom burger is a breaded, deep-fried portabello with muenster and cheddar cheeses cooked inside. It squirted some of the cheese out on my first bite, which made for some nice dip for the crisp fries.

The shakes are rich and creamy, and come in different varieties, most notably the "Shack Attack" consisting of chocolate custard, hot fudge, chocolate truffle cookie dough, Valhrona chocolate chunks, and, for good measure, chocolate sprinkles. That even makes me, a baker and lover of all things dessert, gasp.

So NYC's burger tradition begins with this wonderful stand in Madison Square Park. It's crowded at all hours, but for good reason. I really can't think of a much better way to spend a non-muggy summer day in NYC than taking in a Shake Shack burger, a shake, and simply kicking back and watching the people go by.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

NYC: BBQ Central? You're joking, right?






So picture this. You're a clasically trained french chef. You work for one of the city's elite restauranteurs. Your food entertains a clientele of Manhattan power players. For most foodies, this is the life.


And then, oddly enough, your next career move takes you away from NYC and into the great American southwest. What now? High-class Manhattan dining is unlikely to find a hold on the frontier.


This is the path of Adam Perry Lang, formerly of Daniel Boulud's staff who returned to NYC a few years ago to open Daisy May's BBQ, arguably the finest BBQ establishment in the city. The southwestern influences mesh with Lang's classic training to create original renditions of BBQ classics.


I never eat at BBQ places in California, largely to save my palate (and my diet) until I get to savor the dry-rub ribs at Daisy Mays (washed down with a sweet tea). They also offer sticky ribs, chicken, and a slew of original side dishes. At night, however, private groups take over the joint as whole roasted pigs, pork shoulder, and rack of lamb are served to large parties at a premium price.


Can it contend with the traditional offerings from the South? Lang has won several competitions against BBQ royalty, as he has infused his knowledge of other cuisines to enhance his BBQ prowess.


So while it seems like a great change for someone from Lang's roots to go from French Haute to southwestern BBQ, the tangy, spicy, satisfying offerings that come out of the Daisy May's smoker are like no other you have tasted. Thus, I enthusiastically recommend hitting this joint on your next visit.
(Pictured: Dry rub ribs with mashed potatoes and cole slaw (before and after), Jumbo beef rib (before and after), Sweet tea.

NYC Delicatessens: Sandwiches like no other.



One of NYC's unique culinary contributions is the overstuffed deli sandwich. With famed spots like the Carnegie Deli, the Stage Deli, and several other ones to name, NYC has a rich tradition with this classic dish.

Slices of corned beef, pastrami, or other cured meats are heated (sometimes with a cheese topper) and placed on rye bread with only a few notable yet subtle extras, most notably sauerkraut or russian dressing. From reubens to pastrami and triple-decker sandwiches, there are so many interpretations to savor.

The above-pictured sandwich is a Pastrami sandwich from 2nd Ave Deli, a small yet enthralling deli on the Lower East side. This particular rendition is topped with cole slaw as well as a side of both russian dressing and deli mustard.

But if you can't get to NYC, I make a reuben using pretty much the same stuff. Here's my version:

Two slices long rye bread

1 Cup sliced Pastrami or corned beef

1/4 cup sauerkaut

2 slices swiss cheese

Thousand Island dressing (about the closest to Russian you can buy in a major supermarket)

After spreading the dressing on both slices of bread, place the sauerkraut and then the meat in equal portions on each slice of bread. Place the slices of cheese on top.

In a toaster oven, lay each open-face slice on the rack and toast for about 6-8 minutes. Remove, place together, slice, and serve.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

The Cabinet is coming to NYC!


Hey Food Fans,

Hope you all had a great 4th of July weekend and such. Just wanted to let you know that the Cabinet is paying a visit to what Colonel Slade called "Freak show central" in "Scent of a Woman."

That's right, New York City.

From street food to the swanky halls of Le Cirque, there's much to see, hear, do, and of course, eat, in NYC. So stay tuned to the Cabinet as, for the next week, we dish on just a sampling of what this amazing city has to offer your palates.