Monday, June 30, 2008

Father's Office: The burger that ends (and starts) all debates


Ask anyone, foodie or not, about what makes a good burger, and you'll hear different ideas and beliefs. Is it the bun? The cheese? The toppings? The fries? The patty?

Today, burgers come in all shapes, sizes, and styles. From the no frills, simple yet delicious burgers at Louis Lunch in New Haven, CT, to the California classic In-n-Out double-doubles and the $30 burger at New York's 21 Club, interpretations of this traditional American institution cover the entire flavor spectrum and are all noteworthy for their own reasons.

In Southern California, where the automobile is king, drive-thru's and takeout joints have only intensified the food world's obsession with the burger, and in the Southland, foodies all point to Father's Office, a simple and unpretentious establishment in Santa Monica, where Chef Sang Yoon offers what many consider the best burger in Los Angeles, in addition to other offerings that resemble that of a Spanish tapas bar. It is only fitting then that a wide selection of beers are available on tap. At any and all hours, the place is packed, and the fact that you can only place orders at the bar ensures a heavy crowd.

Knowing this, another location recently opened in Culver City on Helms Street. Although much larger, I hear the place gets equally heavy traffic at peak hours. Armed with this knowledge, I began last Saturday's southland trek with the aim of arriving at the Culver City Father's Office right after the noon opening time. You can imagine my surprise when I saw the sleek, shiny establishment nearly empty upon my arrival.

The Father's Office Burger is a simple yet stunning combination of flavors. The patty is solid, and accentuated by the presence of caramelized onions and gruyere cheese, which offer a notable clash of sweet and bitter. The arugula greens in the burger also provide a unique play on the usual presence of greens in a burger.

The fries themselves are also of note. Thinly sliced frites with a hint of garlic are provided with a creamy garlic aioli dressing for dipping. It is to be mentioned, though, that several customers opt to pay a little extra for a basket of sweet potato frites instead.

At $14, is surely isn't cheap, but it is one of the few unique superior culinary offerings in the southland that won't completely destroy your wallet. But don't take my word for it. If anything, this burger only starts new debates on what belongs and doesn't belong in a good burger. By all means, I'd really like to know what you think about what makes the perfect burger.

Happy Eating

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