Michael for the masses (or at least those who don't live near San Francisco)

So judging from my previous post a while back, you have gathered that I am a fan of Michael Mina. I first encountered his cuisine at Aqua in San Francisco, and then to his new and fabulous location in the St. Francis Hotel in Union Square. From his foie gras to interpretations on lobster (including a lobster corndog, if you can believe that) and powerful way with Kobe beef, Michael has built a reputation that powers an $80 million a year restaurant empire.

So with no excessive deliberation, I selected Stonehill Tavern in Dana Point as the location for my family's graduation/father's day dinner. The restaurant is located on the lush grounds of the Monarch Beach Resort, a luxurious resort that hosts many conferences and visitors to the area (including fans attending the US Open down at Torrey Pines, as evidenced by the guests carrying USGA plastic bags around the grounds).

As we were seated, my seat faced the outside patio, where the blinding OC sunset was in its last throes, requiring me to wear my Ray-Bans for a little bit before the sun went down. The decor is simple yet elegant.

Michael's appetizers usually consist of a central ingredient with three or so interpretations to chose from. You can choose one of them, or a tasting trio of a couple of them. I had the duck tasting trio, consisting of a roasted duck breast in plum sauce, a crispy duck thigh with shallot jus, and, of course, Hudson Valley Foie Gras, this time served with a peach sauce (more commonly, apples are used). Not too overwhelming, but still very good.

Sadly this night, the restaurant was out of Maine Lobster, one of Michael's most famed dishes. Otherwise, the entree offerings are diverse and inventive, and with it being Father's Day, the restaurant was offering prime Kobe Beef steaks at the price of $35 an ounce, with the most common portion being five ounces (naturally, we passed). But one offering stood out to me.

Whole-Fried Organic Chicken.

Honestly, who in their right mind goes to a five-star restaurant and orders FRIED CHICKEN? Okay, I concede the fact there is also a Kobe beef burger on the menu which seems kinda boring, but FRIED CHICKEN?!?!? Furthermore, it's only best when ordered by two people, as they will cut it tableside. So one more of us has to be crazy enough to try it.

The reason I wanted to take this most unusual risk was that I saw Michael's book at a Borders last summer and was pointed to the recipe by the jacket cover. As I scrolled down the ingredients for the frying base, my brain gasped.

The recipe calls for the chicken to be fried in oil and a cup of DUCK FAT.

I've said it several times to myself, and I'll say it here. When you have to fry an animal in ANOTHER ANIMAL'S FAT, THAT's BIG LEAGUE!

(My family wanted to know if it really was duck fat they friend the chicken in. Reluctantly, the waiter confessed it, and I was vindicated)

Reluctantly, my brother agreed to have the chicken with me, threatening that if it was not the best chicken he had ever tasted, I would have to pay for the next two fancy dinners we had together (given that they would mostly likely be in New York, an expensive proposition).

So the chicken arrives served on top of a mountain of truffle-infused mac'n'cheese and broccoli. The serve cuts the chicken on a spiked board (for those in the know, it makes sure the juice that leaks out doesn't collect and make the base of the chicken damp). They then pour onion sauce on top and accompany it with a couple of onion rings.

The dark meat chicken was quite flavorful. The onion sauce didn't add too much, but the mac'n'cheese was a pleasant surprise. In the end, it's just another example of Mina's playful cuisine, that amuses and satisfies his diners.

We would've ordered dessert, but upon seeing the menu, we discovered that all the desserts we would've ordered we'd already had at other Mina establishments. Add being full from the meal, and we quickly passed, save for some chocolate covered ice cream morsels that came with the check.

So our verdict? If you've never had Michael's food before, this is a stunning place to come to and learn about his playful and elegant style. If you have had Michael's food before, however, Stonehill has little to offer in the way of the new, and you probably would be best served saving your money for his San Francisco restaurant.