Burger Contender #1: Shake Shack, NYC

So remember that post about the great burger debate? Here's a place to fuel the fire.

So we've talked about how the burger comes in all shapes and sizes. Also how a place like California has a long and distinguished burger tradition thanks to the fascination with the drive-thru. Consequently, New York City doesn't have a great burger tradition, with things like deli sandwiches and street hot dogs occupying the ranks of city institutions.

Enter Shake Shack, a stand in Madison Square Park run by the Union Square Hospitality group, which is home to the legendary Gramercy Tavern, one of New York's top restaurants. With Shake Shack, Danny Meyer has come upon a great concept of a simple burger stand in a refreshing park setting in lower Manhattan. On temperate summer days, like the day I went, it's quite an ideal spot to be.

The burgers, however, are superior. Flavorful patties that are juicy and succulent. Creamy and tangy shack sauce. Fresh toppings. Certainly, this burger excels at the required elements. I ordered the Shack Stack, which is a double cheeseburger with a 'shroom burger in the middle. The 'Shroom burger is a breaded, deep-fried portabello with muenster and cheddar cheeses cooked inside. It squirted some of the cheese out on my first bite, which made for some nice dip for the crisp fries.

The shakes are rich and creamy, and come in different varieties, most notably the "Shack Attack" consisting of chocolate custard, hot fudge, chocolate truffle cookie dough, Valhrona chocolate chunks, and, for good measure, chocolate sprinkles. That even makes me, a baker and lover of all things dessert, gasp.

So NYC's burger tradition begins with this wonderful stand in Madison Square Park. It's crowded at all hours, but for good reason. I really can't think of a much better way to spend a non-muggy summer day in NYC than taking in a Shake Shack burger, a shake, and simply kicking back and watching the people go by.

NYC: BBQ Central? You're joking, right?

So picture this. You're a clasically trained french chef. You work for one of the city's elite restauranteurs. Your food entertains a clientele of Manhattan power players. For most foodies, this is the life.

And then, oddly enough, your next career move takes you away from NYC and into the great American southwest. What now? High-class Manhattan dining is unlikely to find a hold on the frontier.

This is the path of Adam Perry Lang, formerly of Daniel Boulud's staff who returned to NYC a few years ago to open Daisy May's BBQ, arguably the finest BBQ establishment in the city. The southwestern influences mesh with Lang's classic training to create original renditions of BBQ classics.

I never eat at BBQ places in California, largely to save my palate (and my diet) until I get to savor the dry-rub ribs at Daisy Mays (washed down with a sweet tea). They also offer sticky ribs, chicken, and a slew of original side dishes. At night, however, private groups take over the joint as whole roasted pigs, pork shoulder, and rack of lamb are served to large parties at a premium price.

Can it contend with the traditional offerings from the South? Lang has won several competitions against BBQ royalty, as he has infused his knowledge of other cuisines to enhance his BBQ prowess.

So while it seems like a great change for someone from Lang's roots to go from French Haute to southwestern BBQ, the tangy, spicy, satisfying offerings that come out of the Daisy May's smoker are like no other you have tasted. Thus, I enthusiastically recommend hitting this joint on your next visit.

(Pictured: Dry rub ribs with mashed potatoes and cole slaw (before and after), Jumbo beef rib (before and after), Sweet tea.

NYC Delicatessens: Sandwiches like no other.

One of NYC's unique culinary contributions is the overstuffed deli sandwich. With famed spots like the Carnegie Deli, the Stage Deli, and several other ones to name, NYC has a rich tradition with this classic dish.

Slices of corned beef, pastrami, or other cured meats are heated (sometimes with a cheese topper) and placed on rye bread with only a few notable yet subtle extras, most notably sauerkraut or russian dressing. From reubens to pastrami and triple-decker sandwiches, there are so many interpretations to savor.

The above-pictured sandwich is a Pastrami sandwich from 2nd Ave Deli, a small yet enthralling deli on the Lower East side. This particular rendition is topped with cole slaw as well as a side of both russian dressing and deli mustard.

But if you can't get to NYC, I make a reuben using pretty much the same stuff. Here's my version:

Two slices long rye bread

1 Cup sliced Pastrami or corned beef

1/4 cup sauerkaut

2 slices swiss cheese

Thousand Island dressing (about the closest to Russian you can buy in a major supermarket)

After spreading the dressing on both slices of bread, place the sauerkraut and then the meat in equal portions on each slice of bread. Place the slices of cheese on top.

In a toaster oven, lay each open-face slice on the rack and toast for about 6-8 minutes. Remove, place together, slice, and serve.

The Cabinet is coming to NYC!

Hey Food Fans,

Hope you all had a great 4th of July weekend and such. Just wanted to let you know that the Cabinet is paying a visit to what Colonel Slade called "Freak show central" in "Scent of a Woman."

That's right, New York City.

From street food to the swanky halls of Le Cirque, there's much to see, hear, do, and of course, eat, in NYC. So stay tuned to the Cabinet as, for the next week, we dish on just a sampling of what this amazing city has to offer your palates.

Father's Office: The burger that ends (and starts) all debates

Ask anyone, foodie or not, about what makes a good burger, and you'll hear different ideas and beliefs. Is it the bun? The cheese? The toppings? The fries? The patty?

Today, burgers come in all shapes, sizes, and styles. From the no frills, simple yet delicious burgers at Louis Lunch in New Haven, CT, to the California classic In-n-Out double-doubles and the $30 burger at New York's 21 Club, interpretations of this traditional American institution cover the entire flavor spectrum and are all noteworthy for their own reasons.

In Southern California, where the automobile is king, drive-thru's and takeout joints have only intensified the food world's obsession with the burger, and in the Southland, foodies all point to Father's Office, a simple and unpretentious establishment in Santa Monica, where Chef Sang Yoon offers what many consider the best burger in Los Angeles, in addition to other offerings that resemble that of a Spanish tapas bar. It is only fitting then that a wide selection of beers are available on tap. At any and all hours, the place is packed, and the fact that you can only place orders at the bar ensures a heavy crowd.

Knowing this, another location recently opened in Culver City on Helms Street. Although much larger, I hear the place gets equally heavy traffic at peak hours. Armed with this knowledge, I began last Saturday's southland trek with the aim of arriving at the Culver City Father's Office right after the noon opening time. You can imagine my surprise when I saw the sleek, shiny establishment nearly empty upon my arrival.

The Father's Office Burger is a simple yet stunning combination of flavors. The patty is solid, and accentuated by the presence of caramelized onions and gruyere cheese, which offer a notable clash of sweet and bitter. The arugula greens in the burger also provide a unique play on the usual presence of greens in a burger.

The fries themselves are also of note. Thinly sliced frites with a hint of garlic are provided with a creamy garlic aioli dressing for dipping. It is to be mentioned, though, that several customers opt to pay a little extra for a basket of sweet potato frites instead.

At $14, is surely isn't cheap, but it is one of the few unique superior culinary offerings in the southland that won't completely destroy your wallet. But don't take my word for it. If anything, this burger only starts new debates on what belongs and doesn't belong in a good burger. By all means, I'd really like to know what you think about what makes the perfect burger.

Happy Eating

Since When Does A Restaurant Get Away with Charging $4 for an Arnold Palmer

So before you think I'm high-strung in blogging about only the upper 25-30% of all restaurants I eat at, let me share an observation from a restaurant near and dear to many of you, The Cheesecake Factory (where my better judgment has not ordered cheesecake in over two years).

Whenever I'm not in the mood for a beer or a diet cola, I usually order (or pour myself from the refill fountain) an Arnold Palmer, that classic combination of lemonade and iced tea. Seeing as how it usually does not make too much effort to make, most places are glad to charge the same amount for it as a soda.

Thus, you can imagine my surprise when my check said my Arnold Palmer costs $3.95. And since most places like this only charge about $2.50 for soda or lemonade, I think I have the right to be a little befuddled on why this combination deserves the markup.

P.S. If you need to work off all this food I'm telling you about, might I suggest a twilight stroll after a warm day. It's cool and refreshing and keeps you in surprisingly good shape. And to think, you thought this blog was just about food.

Michael for the masses (or at least those who don't live near San Francisco)

So judging from my previous post a while back, you have gathered that I am a fan of Michael Mina. I first encountered his cuisine at Aqua in San Francisco, and then to his new and fabulous location in the St. Francis Hotel in Union Square. From his foie gras to interpretations on lobster (including a lobster corndog, if you can believe that) and powerful way with Kobe beef, Michael has built a reputation that powers an $80 million a year restaurant empire.

So with no excessive deliberation, I selected Stonehill Tavern in Dana Point as the location for my family's graduation/father's day dinner. The restaurant is located on the lush grounds of the Monarch Beach Resort, a luxurious resort that hosts many conferences and visitors to the area (including fans attending the US Open down at Torrey Pines, as evidenced by the guests carrying USGA plastic bags around the grounds).

As we were seated, my seat faced the outside patio, where the blinding OC sunset was in its last throes, requiring me to wear my Ray-Bans for a little bit before the sun went down. The decor is simple yet elegant.

Michael's appetizers usually consist of a central ingredient with three or so interpretations to chose from. You can choose one of them, or a tasting trio of a couple of them. I had the duck tasting trio, consisting of a roasted duck breast in plum sauce, a crispy duck thigh with shallot jus, and, of course, Hudson Valley Foie Gras, this time served with a peach sauce (more commonly, apples are used). Not too overwhelming, but still very good.

Sadly this night, the restaurant was out of Maine Lobster, one of Michael's most famed dishes. Otherwise, the entree offerings are diverse and inventive, and with it being Father's Day, the restaurant was offering prime Kobe Beef steaks at the price of $35 an ounce, with the most common portion being five ounces (naturally, we passed). But one offering stood out to me.

Whole-Fried Organic Chicken.

Honestly, who in their right mind goes to a five-star restaurant and orders FRIED CHICKEN? Okay, I concede the fact there is also a Kobe beef burger on the menu which seems kinda boring, but FRIED CHICKEN?!?!? Furthermore, it's only best when ordered by two people, as they will cut it tableside. So one more of us has to be crazy enough to try it.

The reason I wanted to take this most unusual risk was that I saw Michael's book at a Borders last summer and was pointed to the recipe by the jacket cover. As I scrolled down the ingredients for the frying base, my brain gasped.

The recipe calls for the chicken to be fried in oil and a cup of DUCK FAT.

I've said it several times to myself, and I'll say it here. When you have to fry an animal in ANOTHER ANIMAL'S FAT, THAT's BIG LEAGUE!

(My family wanted to know if it really was duck fat they friend the chicken in. Reluctantly, the waiter confessed it, and I was vindicated)

Reluctantly, my brother agreed to have the chicken with me, threatening that if it was not the best chicken he had ever tasted, I would have to pay for the next two fancy dinners we had together (given that they would mostly likely be in New York, an expensive proposition).

So the chicken arrives served on top of a mountain of truffle-infused mac'n'cheese and broccoli. The serve cuts the chicken on a spiked board (for those in the know, it makes sure the juice that leaks out doesn't collect and make the base of the chicken damp). They then pour onion sauce on top and accompany it with a couple of onion rings.

The dark meat chicken was quite flavorful. The onion sauce didn't add too much, but the mac'n'cheese was a pleasant surprise. In the end, it's just another example of Mina's playful cuisine, that amuses and satisfies his diners.

We would've ordered dessert, but upon seeing the menu, we discovered that all the desserts we would've ordered we'd already had at other Mina establishments. Add being full from the meal, and we quickly passed, save for some chocolate covered ice cream morsels that came with the check.

So our verdict? If you've never had Michael's food before, this is a stunning place to come to and learn about his playful and elegant style. If you have had Michael's food before, however, Stonehill has little to offer in the way of the new, and you probably would be best served saving your money for his San Francisco restaurant.